R.I.P. Ms Olydia

In the early morning hours of September 25, 2010, Olydia II ran aground on an uncharted sandbar off the coast of South West France near the Bordeaux wine region.  Despite the best efforts of Captain and crew, Mother Nature’s fury proved a force not to be reckoned with.  Ultimately, strong tidal currents and swelling seas won the battle by cracking Olydia’s hull and flooding her cabin.  Fortunately, all onboard were eventually rescued by helicopter and evacuated to a nearby hospital.

Our unplanned and abrupt exodus from our home away from home required us not only to abandon ship but also leave all of our earthly possessions behind.  Heaps of electronic gadgets and gizmos and personal property were given up as ransom to the sea to insure a safer passage into the hovering helicopter.

There were moments on deck when my knee became entangled in the life lines, and while in the open water as I bobbed in and out of the surf gulping salt water, that I wondered if this was the end.  When the firm grip of the rescue diver’s hand pulled me from submersion, I knew that everything would be OK.  Rendered utterly useless from fear, hypothermia, and exhaustion, I went limp during the accent into the rescue helicopter, unable to assist in my own rescue.

One by one, the crew and then the Captain, were hoisted into the helicopter above from the unforgiving ocean below.  I was filled with a sense of relief and joy as each member of my maritime family was pulled into the helicopter.  As we huddled in the air over our sinking yacht, in silence we held hands, we hugged, we kissed, we cried and we shivered from our cold drenched clothes.

The following day when emotions were more subdued, the crew began to take inventory of the magnitude of all that was lost to the sea.  Despite being in various stages of the grieving process, the Captain and crew were grateful to be together and happy to be alive.  During an impromptu group therapy session that day, I was reminded of a quote of Queen Elizabeth I, “All my possessions for another moment in time.”  It seemed fitting to share this with my despondent Olydia family.  Everyone agreed with the Queen, myself included.

As we each work through the tragic loss of Olydia II and the disruption to our lifes and dreams, I want to personally thank the crew for accepting me, teaching me, and supporting me.  Thank you Cindy (aka Shawna & Cinderella) for stepping up to the plate in our moment of need.  Thank you Gunilla for your friendship and being the peace keeper.  Thank you Ros for being a great roomie.  Thank you Goran for your generosity and parting of knowledge.  Thank you Barbro for your warm smile and calm presence. My heavy heart goes out to each of you.  It is said that what doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger.  I am confident that calmer seas, smoother sails, and more favorable winds are in our futures.

Sincerely... Susan

Deckhand

Grasshopper

Photographer

Cook

Dishwasher

Night Watch Woman

Laundry Maid

Roommate (Roomie in Aussie Speak)

Camaret France

Camaret, affectionally called the “Riviera of Brittany” by my shipmate Ros, is a sailing mecca on the western coastline of France.  Numerous waterfront cafes line the street facing the packed marinas.  This touristy town is a popular get away destination for the French.

Trying to communicate with restaurant staff who speak only French, and I only English, was a challenge for both.  I find it  helpful to smile big to ease the tension.  When I asked about the WiFi sign on their window, all I got in return were confused looks from restaurant staff.  After playing a game of charades in an attempt to get my point across, there was laughter when they finally understood my inquiry.  With a grin on her face the waitress answered, “Yes, Wee Fee”.  Guess I need a crash course in French if I am going to survive in this land.

Shellfish Merchants of Newlyn, England

A hop, skip, and jump from the notable Lands End in Cornwall, England lies the small commercial fishing town of Newlyn.  On the advice of a local fisherman, I set out on foot with camera in hand to pay a visit to W. Harvey & Sons Shellfish Merchants.

Rob Jackson, a warehouse worker, took the time out of his busy work day to show me around the waterfront building which houses numerous salt water holding tanks for various species of crabs, lobster, and crawfish.  This family owned business has been in operation for over 50 years and ships live shellfish daily via ferries and air to markets all over Europe.  Rob’s friendly demeanor and dedication to his job made my private tour of the crabbing industry something I will not forget.

Kilmore Quay - South Ireland

The small picturesque seaside village of Kilmore Quay located in the southeastern corner of Ireland is a combination of thatched roofed cottages, a rocky beach front, a few scattered pubs, top notch seafood restaurants and commercial fishing businesses.

The Best of Ireland - It’s People

While sailing from Dublin to Waterford, gale force wind gusts of 40 knots, monstrous swells, and freezing salt water showers over the cockpit of our sailboat forced the Olydia II to abort the planned route. We seek shelter from the storm in the unscheduled stop of Arklow, Ireland.

As the boat pulled into the marina in Arklow, we were greeted with open arms and the warm smile of an angel.  Lorcan O’Toole, director of OTS Shipping Services, not only welcomed our weary crew to the marina but offered his personal taxi service to and from the local laundry facility in town.

On the ride back to the boat from town, Lorcan presented me with a rugby shirt bearing the name of his yacht, X-Posure.  Being a photographer, his shirt has special meaning for me.  I will wear the X-Posure shirt proudly and think of him when I do.  Meeting and connecting with the locals is the creme del la creme of the travel experience.  Thank you my Irish friend.  It is now my turn to pay a little kindness forward.  

Susan

Dublin - Guinness, Irish Folk Music and more Guinness

The bustling city of Dublin is home to Ireland’s oldest university, Trinity College founded in 1592, numerous museums touting free admission, and diverse styles of architecture ranging from ultra modern asymmetrical sky scrappers to the stately medieval Christchurch Cathedral.

On our recent “all ladies” exploration of Dublin, we explored the city on foot, by light rail, and double decker tour bus.  What I quickly discovered is that Dubliners like their Guinness and live Irish folk music is easy to find .  There are no end to the choice of pubs, most with standing room only and plenty of Guinness being consumed.

On the tour of the Guinness Brewery, which had humble beginnings 250 years ago, we learned the company now produces 4 million pints of the “black gold” a day, of which 50% is consumed by the thirsty Irish lads and lasses.

Islay - More than a Distillery Stop

The quaint Argyll Island of Islay, located in the mid-western section of Scotland, is best known for it’s world class distilleries.  Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg are the most well known distilleries of this remote island known by most single-malt whiskey drinkers. Most tourists in Islay schedule their day’s activities around distillery tours.  Here they learn first hand how the peat smoked single-malt whiskey is formed from the main ingredients of barley, water and yeast into the Scottish liquid tradition.

.Being more interested in photography and not a whiskey drinker, I decided to forego the almost obligatory distillery visit and instead spend my free time wondering the small town of Port Ellen with camera in hand.  What I found on the streets of Port Ellen were   gentle and friendly people, very strong and sometimes hard to understand Scottish accents, rows of white washed homes all facing the inner harbor and a strong sense of community among the town’s people.

The day after my visit to Islay, I wasn’t surprise to read in the brochure from the Laphroaig Distillery, that the secret ingredient to the success of their whiskey was not the process, or the barley, but the “uncompromising, tough, and determined people” of the Parish.  I hope the faces in my photos do the locals proud.